FAQ
Often imitated and often duplicated, welcome to the legendary Vintager Straps FAQ page
Straps are always measured in millimeters.
You'll need to know two dimensions for your custom watch band: 1) Length that the strap needs to be (length is based on wrist size), 2) Width, at the lugs (where the strap attaches to the watch) and at the buckle (where the buckle attaches to the strap).
1) Length: Let's talk length first, it's the most confusing for new strap buyers. Watch band lengths are expressed like this: 125/75. The first number (125) is the length in millimeters of the tongue side of the strap. The second number (75) is the length in millimeters of the buckle side.
What length strap should I get? The proper length for your custom watch strap is based primarily on your wrist circumference. Once you know your wrist size you can use the handy tables below to see which length of watch strap I suggest for you and your wrist. Please note that these suggestions are just that: Suggestions.
How to measure your wrist size: Wrap a piece of string snugly around your wrist where you usually wear your watch, mark the string where it crosses itself, lay it flat on a table and measure the distance between the marks. This is your wrist size.
OK, but what's the "right" length for me? Ultimately, strap length is all personal preference, there is no "right" or "wrong". People usually start out preferring shorter straps and slowly gravitate towards longer straps over time. The table below is an excellent place to start, but don't let it be your bible; these are general suggestions trying to please most people. Strap length is an art and as your tastes change your idea of what looks "just right" will change too.
Note: You can't use OEM straps or straps from other makers for sizing comparison. Strap makers all use different materials, thicknesses and construction methods. Just because another strap fits you "perfectly" doesn't mean the same dimensions will work with my straps. Wrist size is the only way I can properly suggest a strap length for you.
The suggestions below are broken into two tables based on watch type: If your watch is a Panerai or other large (42mm+) watch, use the first table. If your watch is a smaller watch such as Rolex etc. use the second table.
Some lengths for some wrist sizes below overlap, this is not a mistake. Example: if your wrist is 7.75" you will see I suggest both 135/85 and 140/90 for larger watches. Which to go with is a matter of taste; if you want a longer strap (maybe you're ordering an ammo pouch strap for instance) go with the longer option. If you prefer a shorter strap (more conservative, less tail) go with the shorter option. It's all a matter of personal taste... an art, not a science!
Suggestion: If you prefer a longer strap, move UP one category from your wrist size on the charts below. If you prefer a shorter strap, move DOWN one category.
Panerai (or large watch size) strap length suggestions.
- 5.5" - 6.0" (14cm - 15cm) = 115/70
- 6.0" - 6.5" (15cm - 16.5cm) = 125/75
- 6.5" - 7.5" (16.5cm - 19cm) = 130/80
- 7.5" - 7.75" (19cm - 19.7cm) = 135/85
- 7.75" - 8.5" (19.7cm - 21.5cm) = 140/90
- 8.5" - 9.0" (21.5cm - 23cm) = 145/95
NON-Panerai strap length suggestions.
- 5.5" - 6.0" (14cm - 15cm) = 110/75
- 6.0" - 6.5" (15cm - 16.5cm) = 120/80
- 6.5" - 7.5" (16.5cm - 19cm) = 125/85
- 7.5" - 7.75" (19cm - 19.7cm) = 130/90
- 7.75" - 8.5" (19.7cm - 21.5cm) = 135/95
- 8.5" - 9.0" (21.5cm - 23cm) = 140/100
2) Width: Click here for Panerai lug width chart and lug width measuring suggestions.
Width is expressed like this: 24/22 (24mm wide by 22mm wide). The first number is the width of the strap between the lugs of the watch, the second number is the width of the strap at the buckle. A "straight" strap is one that is the same width at the lugs and the buckle, i.e 24/24, a "tapered" strap is one that tapers in width from the lugs to the buckle, i.e 24/22. To find out the lug width of your watch and the width of your buckle simply use any ruler with MM demarcations on it. The vast majority of lug and buckle widths are whole, even numbers like 18mm, 20mm, 22mm, 24mm etc. Some watches have 23mm lug widths. If you're not sure what width strap your watch uses or whether a straight or tapered strap is more appropriate for your needs just email Micah and we'll sort it out.
Click here for the Panerai lug width chart
Every one of my handmade watch straps is made to your custom specifications. When ordering you will be selecting: Buckle type/finish, length, width, stitching color, hole shape, tubes yes/no (no unless your watch is a Luminor or 1950 Panerai). If you have specific requirements, please list them in the “note to Micah” box at checkout.
My straps are mostly about 4mm thick, with the canvas straps being a bit thinner. Most straps will indicate average thickness right on their description page. Note: When straps are ordered in smaller sizes (less than 22mm width) it's an indication that the strap is for a smaller watch. In these cases I will automatically make the strap thinner so that the strap does not overwhelm these smaller watches.
"To-the-MM" lengths are not practical; leather is a "living" medium, as I work with it and as you wear it it changes. Because of this it's impossible for me to guarantee precise lengths. Even if I could it would change the first time you put it on. I will strive to match your lengths, but I urge you to order rounded lengths such as 140/90, which is what a length like 137/88 will end up being anyways.
If your watch is a Luminor or 1950 style Panerai (or any Panerai with solid lugs that use a screw or the newer quick release system) that also has a lug width of 22mm or wider, yes, your strap uses tubes. If your watch is any other type of watch, including any Panerai with wire style lugs or a lug width of less than 22mm, do not use tubes under any circumstances. Using tubes on any watch other than a Panerai can cause permanent damage to both the watch and the strap!
As long as your watch uses a normal spring bar or screw-in lug mounting system and has a normal two lug shape, I can make a strap for it.
If your watch uses an unconventional mounting system, requires a complicated custom shape at the lugs or uses an integrated bolster or other mounting piece that is incorporated into the strap I can't make a strap for it.
To see a list and pictures of some of the many brands I've made straps for, click here.
Not all straps are compatible with all watches, if you have any questions please click here to email Micah and we can discuss your specific needs.
I strive to make straps that are rugged and historic in style. Even my Fine Leather straps are made in a vintage style; a bit thicker with thick thread and oozing hand-made style. I'm not saying you can't wear my straps in dressy situations, but if you're looking for a purely "dress strap" this ain't the place to get it.
I can box stitch (with stitching across the strap at the lugs in addition to around the perimeter) any strap. If you want box stitching, simply mention it in the “note to Micah” box at checkout. Note: All canvas straps will be box stitched unless you request otherwise.
On most straps I do two floating keepers, each 14mm wide. On straps 20mm wide or narrower I make the keepers 11mm wide. On vintage ammo straps like Mauser and Z-Matten as well as all rolled canvas straps I do one sewn in keeper and one floating keeper. If you have a specific preference for your keepers (width, floating, sewn-in, different material from the strap etc.) please just mention it in the “note to Micah” box at checkout, I can do keepers however you prefer.
I don't make imitations or copies of other straps, my straps are my own and frankly I'd be embarrassed to duplicate someone else's work. Rather than trying to duplicate another strap I urge you to instead peruse my website and see if anything I make catches your interest.
When you order a strap you will be able to choose the type and finish of buckle you want. To see the buckles I offer click here.
No, and I don't know anyone who does. I also do not offer refunds or any guarantees on straps ordered for deployant buckles because I already know the strap is almost certainly not going to work with the buckle and would have cancelled the order prior to ever making the strap had I known it was for a deployant. If you want to use a deployant buckle you will probably have to stick with only OEM straps made by the manufacturer.
I can make your strap very thin at the lugs and extra wide so that it might curve, but I can't build a curve into the lug ends of straps.
Rather than moving the holes around the proper way to fit a strap is to order the correct length buckle side, which will put the buckle in the hole you want. I always start the holes at 50mm from the lug edge of the strap unless you provide specific instructions otherwise.
When a strap is properly made, 24/24 doesn't actually mean exactly 24/24 at all points on a strap. I intentionally make straps a little bit "too wide" where they attach to the watch and the buckle to provide a firm, positive fit and to help prevent the strap from shrinking over time to where it's no longer wide enough at the lugs and buckle. If you give the lug/buckle end of the strap a firm squeeze you should be able to get it onto your watch or buckle. Conversely I make the tongue portion of the strap (where the holes for the buckle are) a little bit narrower so that the strap will easily pass through the buckle without rubbing on the sides excessively and damaging the strap.
I ship to anywhere in the world with a physical address.
Orders that include at least one strap ship for free, worldwide, with the exception of countries which the US Postal Service has currently suspended shipping to. Straps can still be ordered from and shipped to these countries, but only at the customers expense via UPS or DHL. To see a list of currently suspended countries click here. Orders that do not include at least one strap also pay actual shipping costs, calculated at checkout. If you prefer to use a shipping service such as UPS or DHL these options can be selected during checkout and are at your cost according to your shipping address. I do not ship via FedEx due to their repeated bungling incompetence.
Domestic shipping usually takes 3 to 7 days. International shipping takes 7 to 21 days, but can take even longer if there are issues with customs.
Tracking information is provided in the shipping confirmation email sent when your order ships.
I have no control over your country's tax rates. All I can offer is that if upon receipt of your order you are charged an unusually high duty or tax I will reimburse you for it.
- Italy - Italian postal service tends to lose packages
- Middle East - Shipments can take up to 5 weeks to arrive
- Philippines - Frequent and long delays in customs
Please check on the homepage here (opens in a new window), right under the logo at the top of the page you will see the current turnaround time. Note: Turnaround times are based on units of one week. Ex: if turnaround time is two weeks that means that your strap will be completed and in the mail sometime between the calendar day that you order and the end of the second week after that date.
Please check the Returns and Guarantee page here.
Many strap makers are "weekenders", people doing this as a fun hobby or a way to make a few extra bucks, and many others are "retailers", people who put their names on straps they didn't personally make and often didn't even see prior to mailing them. I, on the other hand, am a full-time custom strap maker; your strap is completely made by me and is my livelihood, your order feeds my family. Because of this I care about the creation of your strap in a way that no weekender or retailer ever could. Every order is personal for me, from the first email you send to the postage on your outgoing package every step of the way it's my hands doing the work, my skill crafting the strap and my integrity and reputation on the line. I do it this way for a reason: I have everything to lose if you're not happy with your order, which ensures that I'm highly motivated to do whatever it takes to make certain you are satisfied.
I do. Strap making is my full time profession, your straps are my living. I also designed and maintain this website, including picture taking.
Yes I do. Every strap is handmade to order by me. I am a one-man operation, no employees. Well, my wife sometimes takes stuff to the post office, but other than that it's just me.
A strap maker personally hand makes your strap and puts his own name on the line with every order. A strap retailer is a middle man who relays your order to the actual strap maker(s), or more often simply pre-orders thousands of straps from an overseas factory, putting their names on straps they didn't make and in some cases might never even see or inspect.
I'm a one-man operation so to make your strap sooner I'd have to make someone else's strap later, the only fair option is for everyone to wait their turn.
Absolutely! Just go to the Reviews Page here for links to many reviews of my work.
Click on the picture of any strap you'd like, fill out the details and click "Add To Cart". Verify your strap details and enter your shipping information and payment information. You are not committed to buying a strap until you have completed payment.
Yes, I accept all major credit cards as well as PayPal and Apple Pay.
If you've ordered a few straps from me shoot me an email and we can discuss it :-)
No.
Due to time constraints and other concerns I do not take pictures of straps "in progress". I do, however, send a picture of your completed strap via email the day it's done.
I prefer to do all communication via email so that I have a record of what we've discussed, in fact you can email me right now if you want.
Because people's tastes change I make every strap exactly as it's ordered: If no special instructions are provided with an order I don't apply any. I do have records of every order, if you need help remembering previous details email Micah and I'll let you know what we did last time.
Leather is resilient and can handle getting wet, but soaking straps in water is not recommended as it can cause the strap to shrink and/or dry out over time. If you plan on getting your strap wet regularly use a good quality leather lotion or oil to maintain the oils of the leather. Be sure to spot test on the BACK of the strap to see how the lotion will effect the color of the strap, it usually darkens it.
99% of people who order a strap never mention what kind of watch it's for, which is fine with me. As a watch collector it's my opinion that fakes mock and injure the industry and hobby I so deeply love and that, in fact, puts food on my family's table. If you email me asking for suggestions about which strap will look best on your "replica" my answer is "Sorry, I don't make straps for fakes."
As much as I'd like to offer pictures of every conceivable combination I can't do it. If there's not a picture of it on my website then I don't have a picture of it.
Free strap cards are good for Fine Leather straps only and can't be used in whole or in part for any other strap such as Mauser, Canvas, etc.
I was a watch nut long before I started making straps and to this day watches are the central hobby and passion in my life. I regularly attend get together's all over the country and have met many watch collectors and generally great people thanks to my passion for fine watches.
As a watch collector I spent several years buying straps myself. Several of the straps I'd paid hundreds of dollars for fell far short of my expectations, and I thought "Well I bet I could make a better strap than this." Turns out I was right :-)
I've spent many years and many thousands of dollars getting this all together and figuring out the literally hundreds of little details that go into making a truly quality strap. I appreciate your desire to make straps and I encourage you to DO IT. You can find out everything you need to know using these steps:
- Creativity
- Practice
- Necessity (the mother of invention)
- Perseverance
- More practice
- More practice
- More practice
- More practice
- More practice
Did I mention more practice? Have fun!